Le Train Bleu: A Regal Feast of Parisian Tranquility

Le Train Bleu was created for the 1900 Universe Exhibition in Paris and officially opened in 1901. The interior has 41 outstanding murals, and is situated upstairs in the Gare du Lyon, with daily trains carrying passengers to Nice and Lyon.

Architect Marius Toudoire designed Le Train Bleu to be the world’s most glamorous train station buffet; it now delivers the ultimate dining experience.  Since its opening, Le Train Blue has hosted many VIPs, including Coco Chanel, Salvador Dalí, Brigitte Bardot, Jean Cocteau, and President François Mitterrand for his official dinners. The restaurant also appeared in films “Nikita” and “Mr. Bean’s Holiday.”

Stepping into Le Train Bleu feels less like arriving at a station and more like stepping into a royal palace. I was seated along with my two friends and clients, Snow and Mackie, at a table offering a wonderful view of the entire restaurant.

The first thing I noticed about the restaurant was the beautifully tranquil atmosphere, a refreshing contrast to the noisy, chaotic dining spots in the US. It was a true luxury to hear my friends speak without having to shout over background chatter and booming laughter. Don’t let its popularity with tourists fool you, either; this is far from a rushed, subpar establishment. Every plate is exquisite, and the staff treats you with exceptional care.

Hoping to add a special touch to my review, I mentioned in my reservation that I am a travel agent writing a feature on the experience, asking if a quick greeting with the chef might be possible. To my delight and surprise, they took the request to heart. Within moments of sitting down, I was whisked away into the kitchen for an exclusive face-to-face with the chef.

I must confess that the sudden VIP treatment caught me entirely off guard, leaving me momentarily tongue-tied; the chef surely must have wondered about my sudden lack of words. Standing before me was the charming and impeccably presented Chef Filipe Da Assunção. An incredibly distinguished titan of French haute cuisine, Chef Da Assunção commands the kitchen with the effortless poise that comes from over 35 years at the absolute pinnacle of the culinary world.

In 1996, he earned the prestigious title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) in the Cuisine category; his highest career honor. The MOF is the ultimate recognition of technical mastery and craftsmanship in France; it is a lifelong title. He is the only Portuguese Chef to earn this legendary French title; therefore, he can wear the iconic blue, white, and red collar.

He won first prize in the Chef de Cuisine category at Romorantin Lanthenay (2003) and was awarded the “Vase de Sèvres” directly by the President of the French Republic. The award is reserved exclusively for top-tier master craftsmen, artists, and competitors who have achieved absolute excellence in their field.

It was an absolute privilege to meet him, and I was deeply grateful that he carved out a few moments from his bustling kitchen to converse with me. Chef Da Assunçao prepares highly refined traditional French dishes. I selected the “LE MENU PLM” which consists of three courses.

First Course: Gravelas de truite – Trout gravlax, with sorrel emulsion and fondant potatoes. The trout gravlax delivered a rich, buttery mouthfeel with a delicate, clean sweetness, while the green hue emulsion had a sharp, lemony brightness that awakened my palate. The melt-in-your-mouth tender fondant potatoes were braised in butter, and their crisp edges were a golden hue. Suggested wine: Domaine Huet ‘Le Haut-Lieu’ Sec Vouvray, a dry Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. My Verdict – a spectacular opening act – each bite was remarkably light and balanced.

Main Course: Cabillaud vapeur – Steamed Cod with sautéed baby artichokes, spring onions, and wild garlic. The steamed loin boasts a beautiful pearlescent sheen and breaks effortlessly into thick, moist, snow-white flakes that melt on the tongue. Nestled alongside the fish is a vibrant sauté of seasonal vegetables. The baby artichokes offered a nutty, slightly sweet earthiness and a tender bite, while the charred spring onions introduce a subtle sweetness and a pleasant, smoky depth. Tying the entire plate together is the brilliant addition of wild garlic. Far more delicate than traditional garlic, its pungent, grassy warmth perfumes the delicate fish without overpowering it, adding a wild, herbaceous top note that lingers beautifully. Suggested wine: Domaine Laroche ‘Saint Martin’ Chablis (Burgundy), a classic Chablis (100% Chardonnay) that brings an intense, flinty minerality and green-apple crispness which matches the clean, pearlescent flakes of the fish. My verdict: It is a masterfully light yet deeply satisfying course.

Dessert: Baba Bouchon – To close a meal defined by delicate spring freshness, the kitchen delivers a finale of pure, unadulterated decadence with its Baba Bouchon. The dessert arrives as “bouchon” shape—boasting a rich, golden-brown crust. It is split open and generously doused in an aged dark rum syrup. The sponge behaves beautifully, holding its structure while absorbing the boozy elixir until it is heavy, dripping, and impossibly moist. Balancing the aggressive, warming kick of the rum is a generous crown of velvety vanilla bean crème Chantilly. Whipped to stiff, pillowy peaks, the cold cream provides a soothing, luxurious contrast that softens each bite.  A glossy brush of apricot glaze adds a subtle, fruity tartness to the exterior, and offers a faint, nostalgic sweetness to the palate. Suggested wine: Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume (Loire Valley).  This Chenin Blanc offers intense notes of baked apricot, honey, and candied citrus peel. This beautifully mirrors the apricot glaze on the pastry and cuts cleanly through the heavy vanilla Chantilly cream.  A dark, highly spiced rum could use an Aged Rivesaltes Ambré. My verdict: It is a magnificent, theatrical conclusion to the evening. The transition from the warm, sweet cake to the cool, airy cream ensures that despite its intense richness, the palate is left feeling thoroughly indulged rather than weighed down.

Dining at Le Train Bleu is far more than a meal; it is an immersive step back into the gilded opulence of the Belle Époque. Beneath the restaurant’s soaring, frescoed ceilings and shimmering crystal chandeliers, the kitchen manages a rare feat—ensuring that the culinary artistry fully lives up to the breathtaking grandeur of the room. By anchoring avant-garde touches, the experience bridges the gap between historical romance and modern culinary precision. For those seeking the quintessential romance of Paris served on a plate, this spectacular restaurant remains an absolute necessity.